The Falkland Islands - Icebergs and Penguins - 3
On the way to South Georgia
South Georgia
On the way to Antarctica
Elephant Island
“The captain plays with the ice”
Deception Island
Antarctic Peninsula
From Antarctica to the Pacific coast of South America
Patagonian Glacier World
The Long Journey Home
Final thoughts and helpful tips
January 31 / February 1, 2026 - The Falkland Islands
Today is the first time we're going ashore with the Zodiacs. Allready at 7:30 a.m. the first group is scheduled to leave. The passengers are divided into eight color groups, which depart in a different order each day. I have red, which means I'm in the sixth group today. Even though I still have some time, I get up at 5:30 a.m. I'm awake anyway.
The weather is supposed to remain pleasant today, around 11 degrees Celsius. Of course, there is still wind. After getting up, it was dry, after breakfast it started to rain, and when it was time to board the Zodiacs, it stopped again. It will probably be like this for the whole trip.
The restriction of 100 passengers per shore landing does not yet apply in the Falkland Islands [↗]. This means that we are all brought ashore quite quickly. Getting in and out of the Zodiacs was explained to us in detail yesterday and is completely unproblematic. Especially since the bay we are in is sheltered from the wind and the Zodiacs are therefore calm in the water. Two crew members also help us get in and out.
The island we are approaching is called New Island [↗]. We land on a beach where an old minesweeper is rotting away. There is also a small museum, but I don't go inside.
This is what is called a wet landing. So we get wet feet when we get out of the Zodiac. That's why we're all wearing the rubber boots we received yesterday. This afternoon, we moor at a pier. This is called a dry landing, and we can wear normal shoes.
From the beach, we follow a footpath to the other side of the island, about a kilometer away. Except for the mud, it's all very easy.
On the other side of the island is another bay with penguins and black-browed albatrosses [↗]. There is a rope on the ground marking the boundary that we are not allowed to cross. In the Falkland Islands, the distance is 6 meters. For the rest of the trip, it is 5 meters, and for certain species, even more. Due to bird flu, you are not allowed to kneel or put anything on the ground. This also applies to backpacks.
I am dressed far too warmly, even though I have already taken off one layer of clothing. It was comfortable in the Zodiac because of the wind, but for walking...
After about 1.5 hours, we return on board. First through the boot washer, then up to the cabin. Shortly afterwards, the anchor is raised and we set off for West Point Island. We are expected to arrive there at around 3 p.m.
In between, there is free time, although you could listen to a lecture on the Falklands War [↗]. Suddenly, the captain announces, “Waaaaales.” So, dress appropriately, grab your camera, and head out to the Inspiration Walk. This is an area at the very front of the ship – a special feature of HANSEATIC ships. Normally, this area is off-limits to passengers.
In the distance, there is a large group (about 10-15 animals) of sei whales to be seen. These are the third largest whales, although it is difficult to tell when you are at sea and have nothing to compare them to. The seals and albatrosses come much closer to us.
At 3 p.m., we reach West Point Island [↗]. As we drop anchor, I see some dolphins performing their tricks from my cabin window. Unfortunately, they disappear quite quickly and are no longer visible during our stay.
We were told it would be a dry landing. But because it was so muddy this morning and it's still raining, I decide to put on my rubber boots anyway. They're surprisingly easy to walk in. I quickly realize that this was a very good decision.
The hike takes us from the beach where we landed across the island to another bay with the same animals as this morning. However, the hike is two times 3 kilometers long and the climbs are longer and steaper. But there would also have been the option of staying in the first bay or going straight to the cottage where tea and cookies are served.
When I arrive at the colony, I quickly realize that the view of the animals is even better than it was this morning. At one spot, you are standing perhaps 1.5 meters away from the animals. However, it is elevated so that they do not feel disturbed. At another spot, you look down into the bay from above. Here, you can see particularly well how the albatrosses use the updrafts and sail to their chosen landing spot.
I'll skip the cookies and tea. Tonight, I'm invited to the first-time passenger reception with the ship's officers.
At 7:30 p.m., the 30 or so guests meet in front of the NIKKEI specialty restaurant, which has been reserved for us today. However, instead of Japanese-Peruvian cuisine, we are served a selection of signature dishes from various Hapag Lloyd ships. There is a fixed seating arrangement and I sit with two married couples at a table by the window. The officers then change seats after each course so that everyone has been at every table. Of course, the whole thing is a promotional event to get new guests hooked on the brand, but it never feels like that. A nice conversation develops on a wide variety of topics. A pleasant evening with far too much good food and wine.
Overnight, we traveled to Stanley [↗], the capital of the Falkland Islands. We arrive at 8 a.m. and half an hour later the first tender boat leaves. It is 10 degrees and the sun is shining. A few clouds and a gusty wind with a wind force of 6-7 ensure that it does not get too warm.
I take the first tender boat so that I can catch the first bus to Gypsy Cove. There is also a regular bus service, but Hapag Lloyd has chartered its own bus. It takes about 20 minutes each way. You could walk, but the route isn't really that interesting.
At 11 a.m., there is an organized hike from Gypsy Cove, but you can also walk the trail on your own. Then you just don't get the explanations from the experts.
I don't get to see many animals this morning. But the landscape is beautiful. I walk part of the trail that is supposed to be walked at 11 a.m., but I don't find it that exciting and turn back. Now I can see a few penguins in or in front of their caves. I still haven't gotten used to the fact that I don't have to look 20 or 30 meters away, but maybe 3-5 meters.
After about an hour, I take the bus back to town and walk around a bit. The Historic Dockyard Museum is quite nice, but nothing special. However, the sign asking visitors not to feed the birds because they are stuffed is cute 🌝. The rest of the town isn't much to look at either, so I make my way back to the ship. Still, I was out and about for about 4 hours.
At 3 p.m., we leave the Falkland Islands and head for South Georgia [↗]. It will take two days at sea, and the captain has already warned us that the sea will be a bit rougher. In any case, we should put our things away tonight so that they don't roll around in the morning. I'll skip the sports classes and the broadcast of the handball final. At 5 p.m., there's a penguin lecture, which sounds more interesting.
And that's what I end up doing. The lecture lasts about an hour and humorously covers everything from penguin ancestry and biology to behavior.
Barely back in my cabin, there's a “surprise event.” Well, anyone who has sailed on the HANSEATIC ships before or done their homework in advance could have guessed that it was coming today. “Come as you are” is the motto. No matter what you're wearing (even if it's a bathrobe - yes, some people were dressed like that), you should grab a champagne glass and come to the cabin door.
They serve sparkling wine, and some of the crew mingle with the guests. The idea is to get to know your neighbors in a casual, relaxed way. It's a nice idea.
I had actually considered skipping dinner, as I had already eaten well at lunchtime. But since the general advice when the sea is rough is to have something in your stomach, I go to the buffet again. Salad and dessert are enough, though.
Tomorrow morning, we have another clothing inspection. As already reported, there are checks when entering South Georgia, and if too much is found, there are consequences. I actually wanted to use the coming sea days to take another look. But I'll probably have to do that already today.
