“The captain plays with the ice”- Icebergs and Penguins - 8
Deception Island
Antarctic Peninsula
From Antarctica to the Pacific coast of South America
Patagonian Glacier World
The Long Journey Home
Final thoughts and helpful tips
February 9-10, 2026 - “The captain plays with the ice”
“The captain plays with the ice” was the motto that the expedition manager gave out yesterday in the PreCap. After setting foot on the Antarctic mainland for the first time this morning (something that is not always possible; often you have to stay on the offshore islands), we will head into the Weddell Sea [↗].
This is the first time the HANSEATIC inspiration will be able to sail there this year. Previously, the ice was too thick. The destinations for today and probably tomorrow morning have been set, but the captain will decide whether to take the channel or sail around the island based on the ice conditions.
Yesterday's PreCap also said that it would be worthwhile to get up early and watch the scenery. But when I look out of the window at 5 a.m., neither the view nor the weather motivates me to go on deck.
Since I am again in the very first group permitted ashore, I took something for breakfast to my cabin, just like on the Falkland Islands. When I took a closer look at the day's program, I noticed that the buffet restaurant is opening an hour earlier today. So, I could have had a quick bite there. Never mind.
Meanwhile, huge table icebergs are floating past us, which have broken off from the inland shelf and are now drifting north into the open sea.
At 6:58 a.m., the anchor drops and anyone who wasn't awake yet is now 😉. This morning, we are at Brown Bluff, the remains of an extinct volcano. In addition to penguins and seals, there is also the opportunity to climb a glacier here.
While the expedition team goes ashore to check the situation and mark the routes, I start to get myself ready. Since we only have a short crossing but a longer stay with the opportunity to move around, I'm dressing a little lighter today. Let's hope I don't regret it.
As I'm ready, I head to the pool deck to take a few photos. When the announcement comes that we can go to the boot room, it is strongly recommended that we take our hiking poles with us. So I go back to my cabin and fetch them. In hindsight, it was a stupid idea.
When we arrive on shore, it turns out that the expedition team has not cleared the way to the glacier. It snowed heavily overnight, and I suspect that it would be too risky because the crevasses are no longer visible through the fresh snow. Instead, they have marked a path up to a rocky ridge. However, while I am ashore, only three or four people go up there. I also prefer to visit the penguin colony. It is always cute to watch the little animals.
Most of the beach itself is off-limits to us, as this is where the penguins gather to go into the water in groups. However, it is possible near the landing site, so I can photograph pieces of ice washed up on the black beach. Unfortunately, it is not fine sand, but rather large pebbles. But you can't get everything. We have 74 minutes, and even though the beach section is not that big, time flies.
Back on board, I take advantage of the fact that the other half of the passengers are ashore and go to the gym. I haven't gotten much exercise the last few days, and even this morning, the walks were short.
At noon today, we're heading to The Naze on James Ross Island in the Weddell Sea. The landscape on the way there leads through a channel between the mainland and an offshore island. The scenery is stunning. But I will probably skip this afternoon's shore excursion. We are supposed to go to a beach with no animals and then climb a slippery pebble field up a hill. From there, you are supposed to have a beautiful view of the bay below. If, contrary to all expectations, the sun comes out again, I might change my mind. Otherwise, I will enjoy the scenery from on board.
At around 2:30 p.m., we approach James Ross Island. There's something special about standing at the window of the warm cabin and watching the icebergs drift past in the icy snowstorm. At some point, I decide to wrap up warmer and go outside to take a few photos.
I go to my favorite spot at the stern of the ship. Not only do you have an unobstructed view here, even to the front when you go to the sides, but it's also somewhat sheltered from the wind.
The situation is almost clichéd: minus 5.1°C, heavy wind and snowfall, icebergs as far as the eye can see, and the land disappearing into the fog.
After a while, an announcement is made that we will not be sailing to the originally planned landing site after all, but will continue for another 20 minutes, just around the corner, so to speak. However, my decision remains the same: I will spare myself this landing.
On my way to the cabin, I grab a hot chocolate in the observation lounge. I've hardly seen any of the passengers there before. Although the ship is quite small, you develop a certain routine and end up meeting the same people over and over again. Then there are the passengers who are in the same color group and therefore go ashore at the same time, and of course the crew members you encounter regularly.
The next morning, we plan to cruise through the Weddell Sea and look for beautiful ice. Already around 6 a.m., it creaks and rumbles repeatedly as we drive through an ice field.
The scenery is reminiscent of yesterday at noon: it is cold (-5.7 degrees Celsius) and gray-on-gray, only the snowfall is not as heavy. On one or two of the icebergs, a seal is lounging around. I briefly consider going up on deck, but then decide to take a shower instead. You can't stay outside for long anyway, and the scenery won't change until at least noon.
After my morning toilet, I still have almost half an hour until the breakfast buffet opens. So I put on some warmer clothes and go outside. Today, the Inspiration Walk is open. Only a sign warns that it might be slippery. This is something to be taken seriously. The surface of the deck is a little rough, but at least the white painted markings provide little grip. So I always keep one hand on the railing when I walk. Today the wind is coming from behind and it's comfortable to stand here at the front.
The ice cover has continued to increase and we are sailing past icebergs that are significantly higher than our ship. It feels like they are 20 meters away from us as they drift past on the port- or starboard side. But even if they are 50 meters away...
Approximately 90% of these giants are underwater. So concentration is required on the bridge. On the other hand, I can imagine that the bridge crew is enjoying themselves. Hence the motto “The captain plays with the ice.”
At 9 a.m., the announcement is made that anyone who wants to can jump into the water today – the so-called Polar Plunge. It has started snowing heavily again, the outside temperature is -6 degrees Celsius, and the water is 0.2 degrees “warm.” On top of that, there is a wind blowing at 21 knots. It's supposed to start at around 10 a.m. As a self-confessed wimp, I had already told everyone who asked me that I definitely wouldn't be doing it, and of course I'm sticking to that 🌝.
Around 40 of the 200 passengers take the plunge, followed by those members of the crew who don't want to miss the chance to prove their courage.
The PreCap is scheduled for noon today – a rather unusual time. But the information for this afternoon and tomorrow morning still needs to be communicated.
This takes a good 30 minutes, and then everyone rushes to the buffet restaurant. Today, they are serving an Inspiration Burger from the grill. I skip the hype and prefer to eat delicious fish dishes in the full-service restaurant.
At 1:45 p.m., we arrive at Paulet Island. This is home to hundreds of thousands of Adélie penguins. From our anchor spot, I can already see them in the water and on some ice floes. Without bothering to wrap up warm, I quickly go on the Inspiration Walk to take a few photos.
After being in the first group to go ashore yesterday, I'm in the last group again today. Since the landing site is quite small, the individual groups are to be spread out even further, so the plan is that it will be my turn around 5:00 p.m.
But the cruise is advertised as an expedition for a reason. The team responsible for preparing the landing site has found that there are so many penguins there that landing is impossible. So, plans are changed. Instead of a landing, there is a one-hour zodiac cruise.
My group is called at 4 p.m. and this time I am in the last boat, but I am sitting right at the front. However, it is only half full anyway.
When I was outside on arrival, it looked as if the sun was about to come out. In the meantime, a snowstorm set in, but by the time I climb into the Zodiac, the weather has calmed down again. Only on a short passage the rest of the snowstorm whistles around our ears. Of course, it's still cold (around minus 5 degrees), but I'm dressed warmly enough. Only the fingers of my right hand get pretty cold. I need them to operate the camera. Today, for the first time, it would have made sense to wear thin gloves underneath.
The cruise is great once again. Lots of penguins and cormorants – on land, on ice floes, in the air and in the water. They also like to jump into the water in groups from the ice floes.
After just under an hour, it's over. I could easily have spent another half hour on the water. But many of the other passengers are glad to be back in the warmth.
I've barely made it back to my cabin when the announcement comes that we're setting off again. We're heading back north to the South Shetland Islands [↗]. Our destination is Deception Island.
In the evening, I usually go to the full-service restaurant shortly after 7 p.m. It has just opened and I can usually get a table by the window on the port side. The staff also have their designated areas, so we know each other by now.
Today, however, I am intercepted right at the entrance and led to another part of the restaurant. Instead of port side, I am now sitting starboard, again by the window. But there is different staff and I don't usually see the passengers who sit here too. As I wrote before, it's amazing how quickly a routine sets in.
Back in my cabin, I look out of the window (now back on the port side) and it looks like there could be a beautiful sunset. I wait a few more minutes and then go on the Inspiration Walk to take some pictures.
