Antarctic Peninsula - Icebergs and Penguins - 10
From Antarctica to the Pacific coast of South America
Patagonian Glacier World
The Long Journey Home
Final thoughts and helpful tips
February 12-13, 2026 - Antarctic Peninsula
Today was a short night. At around 4 a.m., I was awakened by the rising sun shining through the cabin window. By 5 a.m. at the latest, we were traveling through ice fields, and from then on, it was possible to doze off a little at best.
We are in Paradise Bay, and the weather lives up to the name of the place. Bright sunshine, blue sky with a few clouds, cold but little wind. At 6:30 a.m., we reached our position. It is too deep to anchor, so we drift on the spot.
At 7 a.m., the first group is scheduled to start a Zodiac ride. I have a little more time today and won't be going until shortly after 8 a.m. Enough time to go for breakfast.
If one had to make a wish list for the Zodiac cruise, it might look like this:
- Great weather - check
- Glaciers - check
- Trip through the middle of an ice field - check
- Penguins - check
- Whales - check (one was maybe 20 meters away from the Zodiac)
Definitely one of the highlights of the trip. Before we returned to the ship, we were served hot chocolate with or without a shot of liquor from a catering Zodiac.
Back on board, I first go to the gym before I start sorting through at least the first batch of photos.
After lunch, I just want to take a few pictures on the Inspiration Walk. So I don't bother changing clothes. The lined expedition parka should be enough.
After a few minutes, I change my mind and at least put on the tube scarf, gloves, and earmuffs. We are approaching the Lemaire Channel [↗], and I think I'll stay outside a little longer after all. As there has been no announcement yet, I am in pole position and standing right at the front of the bow.
We pass Una's Tits, a striking rock formation that marks the entrance to the channel. The name was inspired by Una Spivey, born Sedgwick, an administrative employee on the Falkland Islands. Since 2008, they have been politically correctly renamed Una Peaks.
In front of the channel is the Oosterdam again, which we already saw at Point Wild. However, due to its size and lack of ice class, it is not able to enter the channel. We also see two other expedition ships at the beginning and end of the channel. Only one ship is allowed in the channel at a time, so coordination is necessary.
In addition to the rocks and ice, there are also penguins, birds, humpback whales (probably sleeping, as only a piece of their backs can be seen from time to time) and leopard seals that have made themselves comfortable on an ice floe.
The channel is only 720 meters wide at its narrowest point, and like us, the wind also has to squeeze through this narrow passage. To do this, it has to accelerate and now blows violently and ice-cold towards us.
After a good hour, we have passed the narrow passage and can see the other side of the channel. I am completely frozen, so I take my third shower of the day.
Shortly before 3:30 p.m., we reach Petermann Island, where we are to go ashore once again. From my cabin, I can already see a leopard seal [↗] on an ice floe and the Zodiacs with the previous groups approaching it. To be on the safe side, I take a few pictures from the Inspiration Walk, but when we set off, he is still lying quietly on his floe, turning only a few times to see what all the tourists want from him.
If Petermann Island had been one of the first destinations, I would certainly have been thrilled. That said, now it falls into the ”nice to see” category. The penguin colony has already shrunk considerably, and even though they are the first in the snow and it’s still fun to watch them waddle around a bit clumsily, we’ve seen more exciting things. Even the iceberg graveyard doesn't really deserve its name this late in the season. The highlight, besides the leopard seal, was a young skua.
When we return, it's already time for dinner. I sit by the window again and somehow it all seems completely surreal. I look out at snow-covered or glaciated mountains, ice ranging from small chunks to large icebergs floating by in the water, and meanwhile I eat a 5-course meal worthy of a Michelin-starred restaurant.
After passing through the Lemaire Channel so easily at noon today, the captain takes the same route back. Petermann Island was the southernmost point of our journey. Still 200 km from the Arctic Circle. In the northern hemisphere, this would correspond to about the middle of Iceland.
After lunch, I go back on deck. While the crowds were bustling around at noon, now there are only a handful of people on deck amid the most beautiful light. It is about an hour before sunset, and this far south, the light is already beautifully soft. Most of those who are there are taking pictures with their cell phones. Where are all the photographers with the expensive lenses?
The next morning, we visit Neko Harbor, before setting off through the Drake Passage towards South America. Sure enough, I am once again one of the “lucky ones” who get to board the Zodiac at 6:30 a.m. Neko Harbor is our second landing on the Antarctic continent.
The day greets us with bright sunshine. Neko Harbour is a beautiful bay with a somewhat challenging landing.
We climb out of the water over large pebbles. We could now stay on the beach somewhat above the waterline. Somewhat above the waterline because there is a glacier in the immediate vicinity that calves regularly and creates corresponding waves. Only a few people stay right here.
I continue uphill along a severely icy path. Today I also have hiking poles with me; without them, it would have been impossible. It's just a pity that I left the ice cleats for my shoes at home. Halfway up, there is a penguin colony and a fork in the path from which you can see an old, dilapidated shelter and, above all, the glacier. The rest of the path is also icy and leads to a viewpoint overlooking the bay. This is said to be a good 100 meters above sea level.
I walk to the colony and the point where you can see the glacier. I also walk a little further up, but then decide to turn back. I would probably have made it to the top without too much trouble. But you also have to come back down, and even from here, that's quite a challenge. The beginning is fine, but the last few meters have to be done on the icy path that was already difficult going up. Everything goes well and I'm back on board at 8 a.m.
I'm not the only one who enjoyed the crossing with the Zodiac. Of course, the driver couldn't fulfill the request for a spontaneous cruise. But there was enough time for an extra detour 😉.
At around 11 a.m., we leave Neko Harbor and set off for South America. First, we leave the Antarctic waters at slow speed and then cross the famous Drake Passage [↗]. According to the captain's announcement, a low-pressure system will send us a few waves, but by the time it arrives, we should have already reached the Beagle Channel.
Now you could say that the long journey home has begun. For me, however, the third section begins with the Chilean fjords. Nevertheless, the hotel department has organized a farewell from Antarctica. In bright sunshine, we enjoy Prosecco on the observation deck at the bow. They have even organized a few humpback whales to wave goodbye with their fins 😉.
